Complaint Review: AOK Auto Center

[Jim, your name is the same as AOK's owner].

1) the a/c problem, like the temp gauge problem, is a "byproduct" of aok's garage's negligent, unneeded "diagnosis" & "WORK",

of a problem created by aok' owner, & not the visibly evident coolant leak, I took my car to said garage to begin with, IT WAS NOT CAUSED BY ANY WORK I DID OR DID'NT DO PRIOR OR AFTER AOK'S "REPAIR WORK"!

BOTH were caused by aok garage, not me or anyone else, as my heat, a/c, cruise control all worked flawlessly before aok's coupe, [or yet to be discovered malfunction's not present before,

caused by the unprofessional work of people who thought I was just another mechanical nerd or soft touch]!

2) the coolant leak was as stated in my original complaint, happenned just as I recorded it.

Off camera, I explained my problem to Jim of aok garage. On camera after he "test" drove my car for 5 minutes, jumping out of my car on camera, steam now coming from a pin hole leak

[probably caused by him as it was not steaming before], now on camera [his evidence, against my word!], Jim of aok animatedly kept pointing to the driver's side under the hood, after I had

distinctly, coherently, & intelligently showed the problem to him before his "test" drive & nothing else was leaking or steaming.

He returned, pointing to a small amount of dried coolant already there, I had temporarily repaired prior with sealant, that successfully solved the problem.

3) No matter what is said, or how you slice the pie, I was defrauded & ripped off deliberately, and caulously calculated by aok garage, period!

4) All gauges, a/c, heat, compressors, etc were working perfectly before aok lined their pockets with over $500 of my fixed income money [another issue], looking for more!

5) all else is academic & a no brainer as to where the residual problems keep coming from [not the car's age or any of my work!].

6) I won't repeat what some advised me to do when I told them what had happenned, or how a lot of other garages [routinely] do the same thing(s).

[AOK's main income appears to be from car's purchased from auctions, being recently licensed as a emmissions testings station [academic & what ever!].

[No signs, labor prices, etc were posted (at least visibly)], before I repeatedly brought my car back to him to be "fixed". A NEW pricing sign was posted on one of my trips there.

AS ONE HEADING HERE READ, "STAY AWAY FROM [AOK'S GARAGE]" IT'S NOT OK"!

BOTTOM LINE?

NEVER, NEVER TRUST "ANYONE" WHO SAYS "YOU'VE GOT TO TRUST ME ON THIS ONE" [AT YOUR EXPENSE]! HE'S A RIPOFF ALONG WITH SOME OTHERS I WAS TOLD ABOUT!

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL INPUT!

P.S.

The final report typed on a lawyers computer, was so incoherent, I had to question the lawyer "representing" me, and point to his errors repeatedly, [errors happen, but .....],

being told "I'm the lawyer here". If this is justice, etc in a "equillibrium, protector of the 'defenseless' blue state", I

may be better off living where transmissions in front yards are one's "coat of arms", good manners are common, & these type of farces ae frowned on!

Thank you one and all for your help;

I just checked my complaint again, and will go with Jim, as one mechanic suggested it was the same problem [lose hose connection].

The reason I did'nt notice the heater or a/c was not working was, the blower motor, compressor motor, fan, etc could be seen/heard operating as I flushed the system, prior to

reconnecting the temp gauge wire from the firewall to the wire from the engine block.

I was so relieved that the temp gauge was finally working, I went no further, assuming all else was *ok [*no pun intended],

I seldom use my a/c because of high gas prices & the temp gauge problem. Again everthing is working with nothing coming

from the vents [only a little heat is felt], so Jim, thanks a million and I will do what you suggested asap and post the

results [there's little room to work, & I hope that's all that "big gorilla" disconnected, a hose he replaced had one cut end/one end torn by "hand"!].

THANKS MILLIONS AGAIN [NOW I KNOW WHY THEY ONCE HUNG HORSE THIEVES!].

Gratefully;

Thank you one and all for your help;

I just checked my complaint again, and will go with Jim, as one mechanic suggested it was the same problem [lose hose connection].

The reason I did'nt notice the heater or a/c was not working was, the blower motor, compressor motor, fan, etc could be seen/heard operating as I flushed the system, prior to

reconnecting the temp gauge wire from the firewall to the wire from the engine block.

I was so relieved that the temp gauge was finally working, I went no further, assuming all else was *ok [*no pun intended],

I seldom use my a/c because of high gas prices & the temp gauge problem. Again everthing is working with nothing coming

from the vents [only a little heat is felt], so Jim, thanks a million and I will do what you suggested asap and post the

results [there's little room to work, & I hope that's all that "big gorilla" disconnected, a hose he replaced had one cut end/one end torn by "hand"!].

THANKS MILLIONS AGAIN [NOW I KNOW WHY THEY ONCE HUNG HORSE THIEVES!].

Gratefully;

Thank you one and all for your help;

I just checked my complaint again, and will go with Jim, as one mechanic suggested it was the same problem [lose hose connection].

The reason I did'nt notice the heater or a/c was not working was, the blower motor, compressor motor, fan, etc could be seen/heard operating as I flushed the system, prior to

reconnecting the temp gauge wire from the firewall to the wire from the engine block.

I was so relieved that the temp gauge was finally working, I went no further, assuming all else was *ok [*no pun intended],

I seldom use my a/c because of high gas prices & the temp gauge problem. Again everthing is working with nothing coming

from the vents [only a little heat is felt], so Jim, thanks a million and I will do what you suggested asap and post the

results [there's little room to work, & I hope that's all that "big gorilla" disconnected, a hose he replaced had one cut end/one end torn by "hand"!].

THANKS MILLIONS AGAIN [NOW I KNOW WHY THEY ONCE HUNG HORSE THIEVES!].

Gratefully;

His diagnosis from afar seems pretty much the normal diagnosis of the situation. But, what do I know? I'm only a humble mechanic with his own shop(NAPA Auto Care) and see this stuff every day. Had one the other day. The complaint was A/C not working. Actually, the problem was the blower motor was not working, causing the compressor to not engage. It all goes round and round.

Bob.
It's been a week since I corrected "Nate's" misstatements, would you please post whether or not the info I gave you on checking the heater/AC was useable?

In other words, does the Heater/AC now work correctly?

Was there a vacuum hose loose?

Can I be of any further assistance?

First of all I did not state that the customer knocked the wire off to the temp sender, If you read the initial complaint he fixed that himself and it is working properly.

Second the initial writer states he's disabled and has some mechanical knowledge, but is not a mechanic.

Go back and reread the complaint, I'll wait while you do.

Here's the quote if you can't be bothered to accurately read the initial complaint.

(Quote)

I finally got the coolant gauge to work myself, after installing a new temperature coolant sending device myself, and spotting a loose wire [caused by them] between the firewall [coming from the coolant temperature gauge] and a matching connection [male to female connection] I could not see, but fished around between the firewall and the engine block until I felt the loose matching wire and made the connection. It's still working perfectly three days later.

(Unquote)

In his second update he then complains that the heater and AC is not now working.

(Quote)

I just wanted to add the following to my report concerning AOK: My a/c & heater is not working now, everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

(Unquote)

OK "Nate" if you're a certified Technician why do you not listen to the customer's initial complaint, the methods he used to fix it, and the later complaint that "Now the AC and heater is not working."

Note the part where he says "everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

Note the timing, the initial complaint was that the wire was left loose, that he "Fished around behind the engine", found and reconnected the wire, and it now works, (No mention of a non working heater/AC)

Then a later statement that now (Emphasis NOW) the heater and AC is not working.

Got the sequence of events straight now Nate, first the loose wire complaint, then he fixed it, now the heater/AC does not work? AFTER he Fished around between the engine and firewall.

"Nate" then crops up out of nowhere spouting misinformation that he could plainly read, if he ever would, stating

(Quote)

You start off your comments by assuming that a loose vacuum hose was the cause of Bob's temp sensor issue, and you even go so far as to suggest that Bob may have inadvertently knocked it off himself.

(Unquote)
A clear indication that you DID NOT READ THE COMPLAINT ACCURATELY, AND MADE FALSE STATEMENTS BASED SOLELY ON YOUR OWN (Nate's) IGNORANCE.

"Nate" then Again says (Quote)

You then proceed partially diagnose Bob's HVAC problem, attributing it to yet another loose vacuum hose.

(Unquote)

Still not reading correctly, only one probable loose hose.

"Nate" then says

(Quote)

It should be quite obvious to any mechanic of any skill level that if there is no heat and no A/C, the first component to check is the blower motor.

(Unquote)

Nate, he did not say there was no air blowing, he said the heater/AC was not working.
The implication here is that air blows, but does not get hot or cold. Note again the clear statement.

"everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat."

Had he said there was no air blowing, there would have been an entirely different suggestion of checks to be made, but what he really said is that it was not heating or cooling, not "Not blowing"

You're partly correct, IF (Big IF) he had said "Not Blowing" this could indeed be a bad fuse, wire connection, or a bad blower motor, but it's unlikely based on the statement that he "Fished around between the motor and firewall" sounds like maybe another loose wire, this one to the blower motor.

The diagnosis is necessarily rough, I'm hampered by not being able to either see the vehicle, or have any indication what kind of vehicle it really is, (Make Model, Engine type, trans type, etc.)

In this case the diagnosis must be made in general terms. We don't even know if it's a car or truck.

The checks suggested can be made on almost any vehicle, but are deliberately nonspecific to any one vehicle.

Example, some vehicles have wires to the blower motor in the engine compartment, many more do not, it's entirely under the dash.

Nate, based on your reply it's plain why you're "Certified" but NOT "Master" you do not read the complaint accurately, you jump to conclusions based entirely on speculation and not facts, you're argumentative, and entirely unable to accurately diagnose anything based on partial information.

Work at it, maybe someday when you pay closer attention to the customers actual complaints, maybe, just maybe you'll advance to "Master"

Just for your own information, I WOULD hire you, then teach you how to diagnose correctly with only partial info given (Customers can rarely explain correctly what the problem really is.)

First of all I did not state that the customer knocked the wire off to the temp sender, If you read the initial complaint he fixed that himself and it is working properly.

Second the initial writer states he's disabled and has some mechanical knowledge, but is not a mechanic.

Go back and reread the complaint, I'll wait while you do.

Here's the quote if you can't be bothered to accurately read the initial complaint.

(Quote)

I finally got the coolant gauge to work myself, after installing a new temperature coolant sending device myself, and spotting a loose wire [caused by them] between the firewall [coming from the coolant temperature gauge] and a matching connection [male to female connection] I could not see, but fished around between the firewall and the engine block until I felt the loose matching wire and made the connection. It's still working perfectly three days later.

(Unquote)

In his second update he then complains that the heater and AC is not now working.

(Quote)

I just wanted to add the following to my report concerning AOK: My a/c & heater is not working now, everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

(Unquote)

OK "Nate" if you're a certified Technician why do you not listen to the customer's initial complaint, the methods he used to fix it, and the later complaint that "Now the AC and heater is not working."

Note the part where he says "everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

Note the timing, the initial complaint was that the wire was left loose, that he "Fished around behind the engine", found and reconnected the wire, and it now works, (No mention of a non working heater/AC)

Then a later statement that now (Emphasis NOW) the heater and AC is not working.

Got the sequence of events straight now Nate, first the loose wire complaint, then he fixed it, now the heater/AC does not work? AFTER he Fished around between the engine and firewall.

"Nate" then crops up out of nowhere spouting misinformation that he could plainly read, if he ever would, stating

(Quote)

You start off your comments by assuming that a loose vacuum hose was the cause of Bob's temp sensor issue, and you even go so far as to suggest that Bob may have inadvertently knocked it off himself.

(Unquote)
A clear indication that you DID NOT READ THE COMPLAINT ACCURATELY, AND MADE FALSE STATEMENTS BASED SOLELY ON YOUR OWN (Nate's) IGNORANCE.

"Nate" then Again says (Quote)

You then proceed partially diagnose Bob's HVAC problem, attributing it to yet another loose vacuum hose.

(Unquote)

Still not reading correctly, only one probable loose hose.

"Nate" then says

(Quote)

It should be quite obvious to any mechanic of any skill level that if there is no heat and no A/C, the first component to check is the blower motor.

(Unquote)

Nate, he did not say there was no air blowing, he said the heater/AC was not working.
The implication here is that air blows, but does not get hot or cold. Note again the clear statement.

"everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat."

Had he said there was no air blowing, there would have been an entirely different suggestion of checks to be made, but what he really said is that it was not heating or cooling, not "Not blowing"

You're partly correct, IF (Big IF) he had said "Not Blowing" this could indeed be a bad fuse, wire connection, or a bad blower motor, but it's unlikely based on the statement that he "Fished around between the motor and firewall" sounds like maybe another loose wire, this one to the blower motor.

The diagnosis is necessarily rough, I'm hampered by not being able to either see the vehicle, or have any indication what kind of vehicle it really is, (Make Model, Engine type, trans type, etc.)

In this case the diagnosis must be made in general terms. We don't even know if it's a car or truck.

The checks suggested can be made on almost any vehicle, but are deliberately nonspecific to any one vehicle.

Example, some vehicles have wires to the blower motor in the engine compartment, many more do not, it's entirely under the dash.

Nate, based on your reply it's plain why you're "Certified" but NOT "Master" you do not read the complaint accurately, you jump to conclusions based entirely on speculation and not facts, you're argumentative, and entirely unable to accurately diagnose anything based on partial information.

Work at it, maybe someday when you pay closer attention to the customers actual complaints, maybe, just maybe you'll advance to "Master"

Just for your own information, I WOULD hire you, then teach you how to diagnose correctly with only partial info given (Customers can rarely explain correctly what the problem really is.)

First of all I did not state that the customer knocked the wire off to the temp sender, If you read the initial complaint he fixed that himself and it is working properly.

Second the initial writer states he's disabled and has some mechanical knowledge, but is not a mechanic.

Go back and reread the complaint, I'll wait while you do.

Here's the quote if you can't be bothered to accurately read the initial complaint.

(Quote)

I finally got the coolant gauge to work myself, after installing a new temperature coolant sending device myself, and spotting a loose wire [caused by them] between the firewall [coming from the coolant temperature gauge] and a matching connection [male to female connection] I could not see, but fished around between the firewall and the engine block until I felt the loose matching wire and made the connection. It's still working perfectly three days later.

(Unquote)

In his second update he then complains that the heater and AC is not now working.

(Quote)

I just wanted to add the following to my report concerning AOK: My a/c & heater is not working now, everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

(Unquote)

OK "Nate" if you're a certified Technician why do you not listen to the customer's initial complaint, the methods he used to fix it, and the later complaint that "Now the AC and heater is not working."

Note the part where he says "everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

Note the timing, the initial complaint was that the wire was left loose, that he "Fished around behind the engine", found and reconnected the wire, and it now works, (No mention of a non working heater/AC)

Then a later statement that now (Emphasis NOW) the heater and AC is not working.

Got the sequence of events straight now Nate, first the loose wire complaint, then he fixed it, now the heater/AC does not work? AFTER he Fished around between the engine and firewall.

"Nate" then crops up out of nowhere spouting misinformation that he could plainly read, if he ever would, stating

(Quote)

You start off your comments by assuming that a loose vacuum hose was the cause of Bob's temp sensor issue, and you even go so far as to suggest that Bob may have inadvertently knocked it off himself.

(Unquote)
A clear indication that you DID NOT READ THE COMPLAINT ACCURATELY, AND MADE FALSE STATEMENTS BASED SOLELY ON YOUR OWN (Nate's) IGNORANCE.

"Nate" then Again says (Quote)

You then proceed partially diagnose Bob's HVAC problem, attributing it to yet another loose vacuum hose.

(Unquote)

Still not reading correctly, only one probable loose hose.

"Nate" then says

(Quote)

It should be quite obvious to any mechanic of any skill level that if there is no heat and no A/C, the first component to check is the blower motor.

(Unquote)

Nate, he did not say there was no air blowing, he said the heater/AC was not working.
The implication here is that air blows, but does not get hot or cold. Note again the clear statement.

"everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat."

Had he said there was no air blowing, there would have been an entirely different suggestion of checks to be made, but what he really said is that it was not heating or cooling, not "Not blowing"

You're partly correct, IF (Big IF) he had said "Not Blowing" this could indeed be a bad fuse, wire connection, or a bad blower motor, but it's unlikely based on the statement that he "Fished around between the motor and firewall" sounds like maybe another loose wire, this one to the blower motor.

The diagnosis is necessarily rough, I'm hampered by not being able to either see the vehicle, or have any indication what kind of vehicle it really is, (Make Model, Engine type, trans type, etc.)

In this case the diagnosis must be made in general terms. We don't even know if it's a car or truck.

The checks suggested can be made on almost any vehicle, but are deliberately nonspecific to any one vehicle.

Example, some vehicles have wires to the blower motor in the engine compartment, many more do not, it's entirely under the dash.

Nate, based on your reply it's plain why you're "Certified" but NOT "Master" you do not read the complaint accurately, you jump to conclusions based entirely on speculation and not facts, you're argumentative, and entirely unable to accurately diagnose anything based on partial information.

Work at it, maybe someday when you pay closer attention to the customers actual complaints, maybe, just maybe you'll advance to "Master"

Just for your own information, I WOULD hire you, then teach you how to diagnose correctly with only partial info given (Customers can rarely explain correctly what the problem really is.)

First of all I did not state that the customer knocked the wire off to the temp sender, If you read the initial complaint he fixed that himself and it is working properly.

Second the initial writer states he's disabled and has some mechanical knowledge, but is not a mechanic.

Go back and reread the complaint, I'll wait while you do.

Here's the quote if you can't be bothered to accurately read the initial complaint.

(Quote)

I finally got the coolant gauge to work myself, after installing a new temperature coolant sending device myself, and spotting a loose wire [caused by them] between the firewall [coming from the coolant temperature gauge] and a matching connection [male to female connection] I could not see, but fished around between the firewall and the engine block until I felt the loose matching wire and made the connection. It's still working perfectly three days later.

(Unquote)

In his second update he then complains that the heater and AC is not now working.

(Quote)

I just wanted to add the following to my report concerning AOK: My a/c & heater is not working now, everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

(Unquote)

OK "Nate" if you're a certified Technician why do you not listen to the customer's initial complaint, the methods he used to fix it, and the later complaint that "Now the AC and heater is not working."

Note the part where he says "everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat.

Note the timing, the initial complaint was that the wire was left loose, that he "Fished around behind the engine", found and reconnected the wire, and it now works, (No mention of a non working heater/AC)

Then a later statement that now (Emphasis NOW) the heater and AC is not working.

Got the sequence of events straight now Nate, first the loose wire complaint, then he fixed it, now the heater/AC does not work? AFTER he Fished around between the engine and firewall.

"Nate" then crops up out of nowhere spouting misinformation that he could plainly read, if he ever would, stating

(Quote)

You start off your comments by assuming that a loose vacuum hose was the cause of Bob's temp sensor issue, and you even go so far as to suggest that Bob may have inadvertently knocked it off himself.

(Unquote)
A clear indication that you DID NOT READ THE COMPLAINT ACCURATELY, AND MADE FALSE STATEMENTS BASED SOLELY ON YOUR OWN (Nate's) IGNORANCE.

"Nate" then Again says (Quote)

You then proceed partially diagnose Bob's HVAC problem, attributing it to yet another loose vacuum hose.

(Unquote)

Still not reading correctly, only one probable loose hose.

"Nate" then says

(Quote)

It should be quite obvious to any mechanic of any skill level that if there is no heat and no A/C, the first component to check is the blower motor.

(Unquote)

Nate, he did not say there was no air blowing, he said the heater/AC was not working.
The implication here is that air blows, but does not get hot or cold. Note again the clear statement.

"everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat."

Had he said there was no air blowing, there would have been an entirely different suggestion of checks to be made, but what he really said is that it was not heating or cooling, not "Not blowing"

You're partly correct, IF (Big IF) he had said "Not Blowing" this could indeed be a bad fuse, wire connection, or a bad blower motor, but it's unlikely based on the statement that he "Fished around between the motor and firewall" sounds like maybe another loose wire, this one to the blower motor.

The diagnosis is necessarily rough, I'm hampered by not being able to either see the vehicle, or have any indication what kind of vehicle it really is, (Make Model, Engine type, trans type, etc.)

In this case the diagnosis must be made in general terms. We don't even know if it's a car or truck.

The checks suggested can be made on almost any vehicle, but are deliberately nonspecific to any one vehicle.

Example, some vehicles have wires to the blower motor in the engine compartment, many more do not, it's entirely under the dash.

Nate, based on your reply it's plain why you're "Certified" but NOT "Master" you do not read the complaint accurately, you jump to conclusions based entirely on speculation and not facts, you're argumentative, and entirely unable to accurately diagnose anything based on partial information.

Work at it, maybe someday when you pay closer attention to the customers actual complaints, maybe, just maybe you'll advance to "Master"

Just for your own information, I WOULD hire you, then teach you how to diagnose correctly with only partial info given (Customers can rarely explain correctly what the problem really is.)

Jim,

If you are indeed a 'Master Mechanic' as you say, I believe you may need a refresher course.

You start off your comments by assuming that a loose vacuum hose was the cause of Bob's temp sensor issue, and you even go so far as to suggest that Bob may have inadvertantly knocked it off himself. There are two problems with this assertion:
1-A temperature sensor operates using an electrical connector, not a vacuum hose.
2-If Bob himself knocked the connector loose, when would he have done it? Why would he be 'fishing around' back there if the connector was not loose?

You then proceed partially diagnose Bob's HVAC problem, attributing it to yet another loose vacuum hose. It should be quite obvious to any mechanic of any skill level that if there is no heat and no A/C, the first component to check is the blower motor. The VERY first place a technician should be checking at this point is the fuse for the blower motor, then checking all other related fuses. The second reason I would be checking the HVAC electrical system is because most (if not all) 1992 vehicles operate the ventilation system using mix control motors and electric switches rather than being vacuum actuated.

I am sure that you are a good mechanic Jim, but I would also say that a trip to your shop may result in alot of unnecessary diagnostic time.

Nate
ASE Certified Technician

I'm a Master Mechanic, I have no connection to AOK.

You said that you had to "Fish around" behind the engine to find and connect your temperature sensor wire connector, it's possible that either they left the vacuum hose off, or that you knocked it loose fishing around (Happens all the time)

The most common cause of both the Heater and AC not working is a loose vacuum hose connection at the firewall connector.(Vacuum "Tree")

First a question, does all air blow out of the defroster vents only (On dashboard at the edge of the front windshield) and does it blow only hot?

That is a sure sign of a loose vacuum hose.

You see there's a "Fail Safe" feature built in that in case of failure turns the heater on full blast and routes the air ONLY to the windshield, The reason for this is to ensure that you can see to drive in the worst weather.

Check this out as follows.

1. First start the engine and turn the AC on at coldest temperature setting, maximum air (Fan) speed.(Run the windows down)

2. While idling raise the hood and look at the AC Compressor end by the belt to see if the AC Compressor is actualy turning. also see if the belt is turning, I actualy had an inexperienced employee once not notice that the belt was broken and gone.

3. If it IS turning reach to the back of the engine compartment near the firewall and find the large steel hose coming from the top of the air conditioning unit, it should be cold, maybe even iced, that tells you the air conditioner is working normaly. (The heater is powerful enough to overwhelm the ac when full on) This proves that the vacuum is the problem, find and re-connect the hose, you've fixed it.

4. If the AC is NOT turning, there's either a pressure problem (Lost the gas) or an electrical problem, to check use a test light at the pressure switch (Right near where you checked the cold pipe, usualy on the aluminum cannister nearby, (Looks like a rounded ends half-gallon shiney can, that's called the Reciever/Dryer) there are two wires, power on one wire, and not on the other means you lost the gas (There's a leak)it's time for a professional.

5. Power on both wires? compressor NOT turning, there's a loose wire, go to the wire connection at the compressor, (Careful, it's near the spinning fan and belt) and again see if there's power on one or both wires.

Power on one wire, the clutch has a bad magnetic coil (Replace the whole clutch assy, once again it's time for a pro)

Power on both wires, there's a bad ground, turn off the engine, then turn it back on, but do NOT start the engine, (Leave the AC on full blast, turn the heater fan to "Low" to save the battery's charge, (then you can hunt around a few hours if needed. and won't run the battery down)follow the AC Clutch ground wires until you find where it's disconnected, cut, or broken, (Back at the pressure switch? Wrong wire, go back to the compressor and follow the other one) if you follow it all the way to a grounding bolt and don't find any break (Etc.) then use your test light again to see if the bolt shows power (This is more common than you think) and tighten the bolt, or replace it if it turns freely.

If that's the problem you should hear the compressor clutch engage with a loud "Clack" when you tighten the bolt, or fix the wire.

Your Heater/AC should now be working correctly.

Not working? you need to check the valve under the dash, behind the sliding temperature control lever, the valves do go bad, look for a disc about the size of a half-dollar with a molded plastic connector (Many plastic hoses, usualy around 9)attached to the sliding lever that controls the temperature.

If you're not a pro, let a mechanic do this, the easiest way is to pull the face off the heater control assy, remove either 3 or 4 screws (Depends on make and model) and remove it from the dashboard by pulling it out.

Good Luck.

I just wanted to add the following to my report concerning AOK: My a/c & heater is not working now, everything is operating with no resulting a/c or heat. Some people evidently know where to

drop their "Mickie's" [do their damage]! Everything was working on my car, before AOK did 'repair' work I never needed or went there for, then refused to stand behind their 'work', not to

mention the problems caused 'afterwards' at their hands! After I fixed my cars coolant temperature gauge problem myself they denied ever existed, caused, or whatever, I now find my a/c &

heater is'nt working! Coincidence? Maybe, but I don't think so. Older car, yes, a 1992 model in good running condition with none of the above problems before AOK Auto Repair's 'team of

[licensed?] experts' 'intentionally' defrauded me out of over $500 with the state's knowledge or/and 'defacto' blessings! Like I previously stated, time for me to move on and let them reap

what they've sown. Hopefully this small amount of info I've related on this website has helped someone besides AOK Garages propaganda machine, as a lot of garages like this one seems to

benefit in some perverse manner, free to prey on others like myself, being ignorant of their 'work ethic'! Their inflated, greedy ego's, & lack of morals will eventually lead them to

someone ahead of their scams & 'dethroning them' in the process!

P.S.
Now I know why he keeps a 300 lb plus worker as one of his 'mechanics' [he also told me at one point for some unexplained reason, about something he had, before or after

asking me why I never get mad! Maybe he's right!]. Such is life!