JD Byrider Odomiter fraud!! JD Byrider, d**n liars! Cheyenne Wyoming
We purchased a 1990 truck from the company which they said was all in working order. First day we get it home we notice there is no tail pipe and the allignment is horribly off. They fixed it.
We also noticed that the shift indicator does not work (they have yet to repair that.) Day three, the radiator pour out all over the drive way. We found out it was totally shot. They then had to replace that. Day seven, I took the truck to the gas station and then noticed that the odimiter did not work.
I called and complained about it because I now realize the miliage on this vehicle is a complete mistery. Theis idea of rectifying the problem is to fix it. This still leaves me clueless about the milage.
They then pulled the tittle and told me that the milage on this was the same as the day I bought it so it is not their problem. I the decided to pull the VIN number and order a history report on caxfax.com. This is where I learned that in 2001 the miliage was recorded as 164,000. It presently (2003) reads 146,000.
Now I'm not a rocket scientist, but are they suppose to go up, not down? I demanded a new vehcile or out of my loan. They offered to take off $750. I can quarentee that there has go to be over 200,000 miles on this truck and that if I had known the truth, I NEVER would have purchased it. I spoke with the store manager and he was very rude, crude, nasty, and just filthy with the way he spoke to me. They still refuse to do anything about this. Buyer beware...call BAR NONE before you EVER deal with this company!!
Christine
Cheyenne, Wyoming
U.S.A.
4 Updates & Rebuttals
Mike
Centennial,Colorado,
U.S.A.
JDB - not evil incarnate, but still, buyer beware
#5UPDATE EX-employee responds
Sat, November 15, 2003
I am a former employee of the JDB-CNAC in Fort Collins, CO, which was bought out by the franchisee of the Cheyenne JDB in 2000. Full disclosure: I lost my job as a result of the buyout.
Referencing the mileage issue, realize that most of these cars are purchased at auction. It is not out of the realm of possibility that at some point before the car hit the auction block, the mileage was rolled back, and JDB legitimately did not know it. That said, the dealership I worked for did encounter this exact situation once - the mileage was altered at some point, and a Carfax search found it later - and our dealership went quite a bit out of its way to fix the problem. They couldn't change the mileage back, of course, but they did agree to a reduction in the price, and it was significantly more than $750.
I worked for them as a collector for CNAC, and there are a couple of things that need to be cleared up.
1. Caveat emptor. Yes, you're going to pay well over book value for the car. That said, it really isn't my fault if you didn't look up the book value. Once you sign the contract, you signed the contract. I'm sorry to tell you this, but it really isn't my fault if you don't read it first.
Now, with that said, on the few occasions when I closed loans, I made very sure to go over everything with the buyer: the price, the interest rate, the truth-in-lending disclosure, the terms and conditions (including the one listing all the things that give us justification to repo the car), and so forth. A lot of people don't.
2. Others on this site have recommended a pre-purchase inspection. Good idea. Insist that a contingency be written into the contract: "Final sale contingent upon passing pre-purchase inspection." Have the sales manager sign and date it, and you do likewise. Make sure you keep your copy. If it doesn't pass muster, that's your escape clause.
3. Pay on time. If you run into trouble, be honest. Talk to the collector. Don't hide from the collector. Don't lie to the collector. Don't scream at the collector. Speaking for myself, I had a much easier time justifying a break for someone who paid on time and was nice to me. (That said, I've never advocated the "be a complete and total hardass" school of collections, so I usually got treated nice by treating my accounts well. I know some people don't.)
4. Collections get more aggressive toward the end of the month. Collectors, at least in our franchise, were paid bonuses based on the number of current accounts at the end of the month. Your collector will tell you, "We will report you to the credit bureau." The truth is, the credit bureau doesn't care if you're a week past due. They will report you "7 days past due" but the credit bureau doesn't really care unless you're 30 days past due. But if you're one week, or even one day, past due, it will affect the collector's numbers, and consequently, their bonus.
Not that you should flaunt this, though. Remember: be nice to the collector, they'll be nice to you. Pay on time, let them know they can count on you to help them toward the bonus. As a collector, my salary worked out to about $10 an hour, so the bonus was what kept me afloat financially.
5. If you really run into a problem, don't go to the BBB. The BBB is useless. Go to whoever licenses dealers in your state and find out about their complaint procedures. You get in trouble with the BBB, so what, they take a decal off your front door. You get in trouble with the state dealer-licensing board, and you may not be able to sell cars anymore.
6. Read up on the federal Fair Debt Collection Practices Act. Learn your rights. Learn what CNAC can and can't do, and come down on them when they do something wrong. The FDCPA is only enforced when someone complains, and most collection agencies (CNAC and others) are betting that you won't.
7. Last but not least - caveat emptor. If you sign a contract without reading it, you still signed a contract. So read the contract and ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be willing to walk away if you don't like it.
Mike
Centennial,Colorado,
U.S.A.
JDB - not evil incarnate, but still, buyer beware
#5UPDATE EX-employee responds
Sat, November 15, 2003
I am a former employee of the JDB-CNAC in Fort Collins, CO, which was bought out by the franchisee of the Cheyenne JDB in 2000. Full disclosure: I lost my job as a result of the buyout.
Referencing the mileage issue, realize that most of these cars are purchased at auction. It is not out of the realm of possibility that at some point before the car hit the auction block, the mileage was rolled back, and JDB legitimately did not know it. That said, the dealership I worked for did encounter this exact situation once - the mileage was altered at some point, and a Carfax search found it later - and our dealership went quite a bit out of its way to fix the problem. They couldn't change the mileage back, of course, but they did agree to a reduction in the price, and it was significantly more than $750.
I worked for them as a collector for CNAC, and there are a couple of things that need to be cleared up.
1. Caveat emptor. Yes, you're going to pay well over book value for the car. That said, it really isn't my fault if you didn't look up the book value. Once you sign the contract, you signed the contract. I'm sorry to tell you this, but it really isn't my fault if you don't read it first.
Now, with that said, on the few occasions when I closed loans, I made very sure to go over everything with the buyer: the price, the interest rate, the truth-in-lending disclosure, the terms and conditions (including the one listing all the things that give us justification to repo the car), and so forth. A lot of people don't.
2. Others on this site have recommended a pre-purchase inspection. Good idea. Insist that a contingency be written into the contract: "Final sale contingent upon passing pre-purchase inspection." Have the sales manager sign and date it, and you do likewise. Make sure you keep your copy. If it doesn't pass muster, that's your escape clause.
3. Pay on time. If you run into trouble, be honest. Talk to the collector. Don't hide from the collector. Don't lie to the collector. Don't scream at the collector. Speaking for myself, I had a much easier time justifying a break for someone who paid on time and was nice to me. (That said, I've never advocated the "be a complete and total hardass" school of collections, so I usually got treated nice by treating my accounts well. I know some people don't.)
4. Collections get more aggressive toward the end of the month. Collectors, at least in our franchise, were paid bonuses based on the number of current accounts at the end of the month. Your collector will tell you, "We will report you to the credit bureau." The truth is, the credit bureau doesn't care if you're a week past due. They will report you "7 days past due" but the credit bureau doesn't really care unless you're 30 days past due. But if you're one week, or even one day, past due, it will affect the collector's numbers, and consequently, their bonus.
Not that you should flaunt this, though. Remember: be nice to the collector, they'll be nice to you. Pay on time, let them know they can count on you to help them toward the bonus. As a collector, my salary worked out to about $10 an hour, so the bonus was what kept me afloat financially.
5. If you really run into a problem, don't go to the BBB. The BBB is useless. Go to whoever licenses dealers in your state and find out about their complaint procedures. You get in trouble with the BBB, so what, they take a decal off your front door. You get in trouble with the state dealer-licensing board, and you may not be able to sell cars anymore.
6. Read up on the federal Fair Debt Collection Practices Act. Learn your rights. Learn what CNAC can and can't do, and come down on them when they do something wrong. The FDCPA is only enforced when someone complains, and most collection agencies (CNAC and others) are betting that you won't.
7. Last but not least - caveat emptor. If you sign a contract without reading it, you still signed a contract. So read the contract and ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be willing to walk away if you don't like it.
Mike
Centennial,Colorado,
U.S.A.
JDB - not evil incarnate, but still, buyer beware
#5UPDATE EX-employee responds
Sat, November 15, 2003
I am a former employee of the JDB-CNAC in Fort Collins, CO, which was bought out by the franchisee of the Cheyenne JDB in 2000. Full disclosure: I lost my job as a result of the buyout.
Referencing the mileage issue, realize that most of these cars are purchased at auction. It is not out of the realm of possibility that at some point before the car hit the auction block, the mileage was rolled back, and JDB legitimately did not know it. That said, the dealership I worked for did encounter this exact situation once - the mileage was altered at some point, and a Carfax search found it later - and our dealership went quite a bit out of its way to fix the problem. They couldn't change the mileage back, of course, but they did agree to a reduction in the price, and it was significantly more than $750.
I worked for them as a collector for CNAC, and there are a couple of things that need to be cleared up.
1. Caveat emptor. Yes, you're going to pay well over book value for the car. That said, it really isn't my fault if you didn't look up the book value. Once you sign the contract, you signed the contract. I'm sorry to tell you this, but it really isn't my fault if you don't read it first.
Now, with that said, on the few occasions when I closed loans, I made very sure to go over everything with the buyer: the price, the interest rate, the truth-in-lending disclosure, the terms and conditions (including the one listing all the things that give us justification to repo the car), and so forth. A lot of people don't.
2. Others on this site have recommended a pre-purchase inspection. Good idea. Insist that a contingency be written into the contract: "Final sale contingent upon passing pre-purchase inspection." Have the sales manager sign and date it, and you do likewise. Make sure you keep your copy. If it doesn't pass muster, that's your escape clause.
3. Pay on time. If you run into trouble, be honest. Talk to the collector. Don't hide from the collector. Don't lie to the collector. Don't scream at the collector. Speaking for myself, I had a much easier time justifying a break for someone who paid on time and was nice to me. (That said, I've never advocated the "be a complete and total hardass" school of collections, so I usually got treated nice by treating my accounts well. I know some people don't.)
4. Collections get more aggressive toward the end of the month. Collectors, at least in our franchise, were paid bonuses based on the number of current accounts at the end of the month. Your collector will tell you, "We will report you to the credit bureau." The truth is, the credit bureau doesn't care if you're a week past due. They will report you "7 days past due" but the credit bureau doesn't really care unless you're 30 days past due. But if you're one week, or even one day, past due, it will affect the collector's numbers, and consequently, their bonus.
Not that you should flaunt this, though. Remember: be nice to the collector, they'll be nice to you. Pay on time, let them know they can count on you to help them toward the bonus. As a collector, my salary worked out to about $10 an hour, so the bonus was what kept me afloat financially.
5. If you really run into a problem, don't go to the BBB. The BBB is useless. Go to whoever licenses dealers in your state and find out about their complaint procedures. You get in trouble with the BBB, so what, they take a decal off your front door. You get in trouble with the state dealer-licensing board, and you may not be able to sell cars anymore.
6. Read up on the federal Fair Debt Collection Practices Act. Learn your rights. Learn what CNAC can and can't do, and come down on them when they do something wrong. The FDCPA is only enforced when someone complains, and most collection agencies (CNAC and others) are betting that you won't.
7. Last but not least - caveat emptor. If you sign a contract without reading it, you still signed a contract. So read the contract and ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be willing to walk away if you don't like it.
Mike
Centennial,Colorado,
U.S.A.
JDB - not evil incarnate, but still, buyer beware
#5UPDATE EX-employee responds
Sat, November 15, 2003
I am a former employee of the JDB-CNAC in Fort Collins, CO, which was bought out by the franchisee of the Cheyenne JDB in 2000. Full disclosure: I lost my job as a result of the buyout.
Referencing the mileage issue, realize that most of these cars are purchased at auction. It is not out of the realm of possibility that at some point before the car hit the auction block, the mileage was rolled back, and JDB legitimately did not know it. That said, the dealership I worked for did encounter this exact situation once - the mileage was altered at some point, and a Carfax search found it later - and our dealership went quite a bit out of its way to fix the problem. They couldn't change the mileage back, of course, but they did agree to a reduction in the price, and it was significantly more than $750.
I worked for them as a collector for CNAC, and there are a couple of things that need to be cleared up.
1. Caveat emptor. Yes, you're going to pay well over book value for the car. That said, it really isn't my fault if you didn't look up the book value. Once you sign the contract, you signed the contract. I'm sorry to tell you this, but it really isn't my fault if you don't read it first.
Now, with that said, on the few occasions when I closed loans, I made very sure to go over everything with the buyer: the price, the interest rate, the truth-in-lending disclosure, the terms and conditions (including the one listing all the things that give us justification to repo the car), and so forth. A lot of people don't.
2. Others on this site have recommended a pre-purchase inspection. Good idea. Insist that a contingency be written into the contract: "Final sale contingent upon passing pre-purchase inspection." Have the sales manager sign and date it, and you do likewise. Make sure you keep your copy. If it doesn't pass muster, that's your escape clause.
3. Pay on time. If you run into trouble, be honest. Talk to the collector. Don't hide from the collector. Don't lie to the collector. Don't scream at the collector. Speaking for myself, I had a much easier time justifying a break for someone who paid on time and was nice to me. (That said, I've never advocated the "be a complete and total hardass" school of collections, so I usually got treated nice by treating my accounts well. I know some people don't.)
4. Collections get more aggressive toward the end of the month. Collectors, at least in our franchise, were paid bonuses based on the number of current accounts at the end of the month. Your collector will tell you, "We will report you to the credit bureau." The truth is, the credit bureau doesn't care if you're a week past due. They will report you "7 days past due" but the credit bureau doesn't really care unless you're 30 days past due. But if you're one week, or even one day, past due, it will affect the collector's numbers, and consequently, their bonus.
Not that you should flaunt this, though. Remember: be nice to the collector, they'll be nice to you. Pay on time, let them know they can count on you to help them toward the bonus. As a collector, my salary worked out to about $10 an hour, so the bonus was what kept me afloat financially.
5. If you really run into a problem, don't go to the BBB. The BBB is useless. Go to whoever licenses dealers in your state and find out about their complaint procedures. You get in trouble with the BBB, so what, they take a decal off your front door. You get in trouble with the state dealer-licensing board, and you may not be able to sell cars anymore.
6. Read up on the federal Fair Debt Collection Practices Act. Learn your rights. Learn what CNAC can and can't do, and come down on them when they do something wrong. The FDCPA is only enforced when someone complains, and most collection agencies (CNAC and others) are betting that you won't.
7. Last but not least - caveat emptor. If you sign a contract without reading it, you still signed a contract. So read the contract and ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be willing to walk away if you don't like it.