Complaint Review: Pep Boys

You can go online a buy a scan computer for your car at around $120. Probably can get one off ebay used for half that. Ripoffs they will try to screw you any way they can. Thats why next time you ask first how much for what service and never never leave your car to the mechanic without being clear what is wrong with it and what what work will the mechanic do on it and how much will it cost.

good luck

Hi Rob! Ater resding your report, i to am intrested in the year make and model. I work at a New Car Dalership (Toyota). With our NEWer car years, at times the gas cap simply does not work correctly, and the engine check light goes on. Was this Robs case?

i am an assistant service manager for pep boys. i come across this problem often with certain types of cars,mostly older models or "half breed cars" such as some mazda's (half ford/ half mazda) At the shop i work at if the scanner won't communicate with the on board ecm we inform the customer,make some suggestions as were they should go for further diagnosis, and return the car to them at "no charge". i feel bad that you were charged for your diagnosis,and am concerned for how you feel. problems with ck engine lights are more involved than just reading a code out of a scanner. you must understand the system and be able to perform certain other tests before codeming just the sensor the code coresponds to. that is why pep boys charges you for an engine diag $89.99 where i work.i have seen people go to auto zone and get the code read, then replace the part, and have the same problem. like this one customer autozone told her she needed a new ecm for her car, she special ordered it (450.00) installed it,was not the problem,NO RETURNS ON SPECIAL ORDERED PART. we checked her car for her and found a bad wire from ecm and repaired it. repair and diagnosis for $89.99. i am sorry that you feel you were ripped off, i cant make a jugement on what happened without knowing all the facts. remember there is always three sides to every story, side a, side b, and the truth.

Hello Rob, sorry to hear about your problem with Pep Boys. In your report your forgot to mention some important information. Especially the year of the vehicle since vehicles 1996 and up have a sophisticated computer system. All new vehicles as of 1996 and up have a computer system known as OBD II. Stands for On Board Diagnostics Generation 2. The reason I mention this is if your vehicle has this OBDII system, a DTC or Diagnostic Trouble Code will be stored in the computer memory if you Check Engine Light is on. The Federal Government made this OBDII system a requirement in all vehicles made from 1996 model year and up. There are regulations that state this systems has to have generic information available that is supposed to be compatible with all diagnostics scanners available used to communicate with the OBDII system. Basically when a diagnostics scanner is hooked up to your vehicle there should be two types of information available for the scanner to read. Generic information that includes DTCs, and other usefull information for diagnosing a problem. The other will be Manufacture Specific DTC codes and manufacture specific information available for the scanner that was made with vehicle manufacture specific information built in. If your car does indeed have OBDII built in you can identify it by reading your emission sticker label usually found on the hood of the vehicle or somewhere inside the engine compartment. If your car is 1996 and up, most likely it will have this system. It will say, "This vehicle or light duty truck meets all Federal (AND OR CALIFORNIA) emissions requirements for a ???? (year) model year vehicle. This Vehicle is OBDII Complaint." Some cars will say OBDI complaint. If your car does indeed have OBDII, then a computer scanner made to diagnose OBDII codes will be able to communicate with your vehicle 95%of the time regardless of the manufacture of your car. This is because the OBDII has generic information available for diagnosis. So a scanner with OBDII functions can read computers from any car that has OBDII. Regardless of the computer system a car may have OBDII or not, if your check engine light is on, a trouble code will be stored in the computer systems and some cars you can access this trouble code without a computer diagnosis scanner. Get back to me on this. Let me know what year, model and make your vehicle is so I can help. When Pep Boys told you that maybe their computers can communicate with your car better if you replaced the battery is nothing but a scam to get your money. This is 100% false information. Reason is if you run the engine, there should be sufficient electricity to run the car's computer and diagnosis scanner if used. Most shops will charge roughly $60 or higher to diagnose a check engine light, however your diagnosis got you nowhere so you deserve to get your money back.

Dave....Shop owner and technician.

Ive seen alot of pep boyeeezzz ripoffs over the times Ive browsed here. Basically the check engine light is a cash cow for these types of places. They get all happy when someone brings in their car wanting to know about their "check engine" light because they get a fee for the test and they know they can tell you just about anything and you will "haf ta" believe 'em.--Plus, like happened to you- they can tell you "other stuff you might be needin'.

The story about the battery sure sounds bogus to me, I mean if the battery has enough power to show you the "check engine" signal, it should have no problem sending this same signal to the tester. But on to more important things.....

99% of the time your check engine light is emission related and you can keep on driving (maybe with a little more power). -A couple of things to check first though- Make sure your airfilter is not plugged up (so your car can breath) and if there is a sensor in your airfilter box, make sure the wire is hooked up. Next if your car is struggling up hills or when pulling out- check (ie,replace)your fuel filter (so your car can eat-part probly no more than 10 bux), and if that dont do it you probly need to check your catalytic converter to make sure it isnt stopped up (so your car can exhale). Basically if you feel good exhaust coming out of your tailpipe your converter is ok.

One other thing if your having these types of problems could be a weak fuel pump supplying fuel to the fuel filter. This will be expensive if its located in your fuel tank, as with most cars these days.

If your not having these types of problems (which I dont think you are since your driving the car and the only thing you mentioned was the light), Im gonna tell you about a nice little goodie called the oxygen sensor. This sensor screws into your exaust manifold (ie the part where your exhaustpipe connects to the engine) and is used to monitor your emissions. Depending on the year of the car etc, you could have only one (easy on your pocketbook) or up to four (maybe even more)-(gonna be expensive). What will cause this to go bad (covered in soot) is that shitty gas you have been buying (or may not know you have been getting) from the cheapo gas station down the street-usually owned by foreignors or unkempt americans. Good gas (shell) will prolong the life of your oxygen sensors (burns cleaner), your spark plugs, your fuel pump and filter, and a biggie- you catalytic converter. So the few cents you save buying the cheapo gas, like Kroger or superamerica/speedway or even lesser knowns can actually cost you alot more in the long run. Another thing to be careful of is water in the gas, often in wintertime, from places that dont keep their tanks clean, or add water to the gas for more profits (like superamerica/speedway).

Because of this the manufacturers have recommneded replacement intervals for you oxygen sensor(s) and I think most say around every 60 thou. Just check your owners manual.

Heres where you may be in luck: As I said it is an emissions control device and basically wants you to not pollute. When it gets dirty, it basically stops working when it should, which may result in some increased horsepower for you. Depending on the year/make of your car you may be able to simply unplug it (as I have done) and drive on.. It is said that you will experience less gas mileage with these dirty or unplugged but I have not done my own calculations.- However I think not paying a mechanic to replace these for me regularly (and possibly screwing something else up) along with the increase in horsepower, outweighs any minimal gas savings you may get. Like I said it may depend on the year/make of your car as to whether it will run like this, but Ive had good luck on all ive unplugged. The one thing you will have to live with, is getting used to the ck/engine light unless you do like the old school guys do, and unplug the bulb in the dash. A recap- If theyre just dirty you can probly just keep driving with or without unplugging them. If you have a more serious problem-like a cracked exhaust manifold-letting fresh air hit the sensor- and the car is stalling everynow and then, try unplugging it (much cheaper fix than a new exhaust manifold). Picture it like this: When your car is warming up in the morning, it is running "free" basically. - Not taking any readings from the oxygen sensor (as if its unplugged anyway). When the car warms up, the coolant temperature sensor tells the oxygen sensor to start workin and taking readings. So if your car is running worse warm, than cold, that may be a sign.

Now dont go out and buy more of the crappy gas to dirty up your oxygen sensors for more power. As I said before, The crappy gas will ruin other things more expensive-but if youve already got dirty oxygen sensor(s) try buying a better gas and just keep driving. Of course, if you need a tuneup (possibly from the bad gas) things will burn wrong and still soot up alot of stuff and plug up your catalytic converter and you'll have NO POWER.

I cant guarantee that is your problem, but that is my guess. My other car Ive always burnt quality gas, has 180 some thousand miles, never replaced oxygen sensors or spark plugs, runs awesome and has POWER, even with all the smog stuff. So think of it how you would feel if you ate Mcdonalds everyday.

Other things you should check:
A throttle postition sensor (TPS)) could make a engine light come on, but you usually will know you need one because you will get really weird idling/revving for no reason so that doesnt sound like your problem either.

Make sure all your vacuum lines etc are hooked up etc, especially after you get your car back, as some mechanics pull these off to make your car run erratic, Ive seen em do it!

As far as your battery, if its continously starting your car reliably, then it sounds like its pretty strong. Pep boys and the like, make a huge percent of their profits on batteries which are often unneeded. Just call advance auto parts- they will answer the phone "Advance auto parts AND BATTERIES"
They have told me as well as others that batteries were bad when not, and that their batteries are superior- Ha Ha f'n Ha. If your really concerned about your battery, go to autozone, buy one of those things that plugs in your cig lighter (about 12 bux) and you can continously monitor its condition both running/not running via its digital readout. Or you can just pickup a voltmeter about anywhere and use that under the hood. Pep Boyeezz can easily run your battery down for you and tell you you need a new one. Dont do it- (alot of car computers will run a battery down if it sits for a few days) Make them charge it, or better yet, since theyve already tried to screw you, buy you one of those self jumpstarters (i like walmart's brand (everstart) believe it or not)- Jump the car and get the hell outta there!!!

IMPORTANT!!! DONT mistake another light, such as oil, or temperature, etc for your check engine light. These lights require immediate attention (usually red) and you shoud probably shut the car off immediatley. It is possible that the check engine light may come on with one of these other lights to help get your attention. But by itself should pose no imediate threat (thats why its usually orange). However I cannot guarantee that all cars' check engine lights mean the same thing these days and I of course cannot take responsilbility if you screw your car up. But like I said Every car I have known, check engine light was emission related and posed no immediate threat, just a cash cow for Pep Boyeezzzz, goodyear, and the likes. Red lights you should pay attn to.

Hope you learned sumthin, I need no credit for this!

DONT GET RIPPED OFF BY PEP BOYEEEEZZZZ! and keep these ripp off reports coming!

Ive seen alot of pep boyeeezzz ripoffs over the times Ive browsed here. Basically the check engine light is a cash cow for these types of places. They get all happy when someone brings in their car wanting to know about their "check engine" light because they get a fee for the test and they know they can tell you just about anything and you will "haf ta" believe 'em.--Plus, like happened to you- they can tell you "other stuff you might be needin'.

The story about the battery sure sounds bogus to me, I mean if the battery has enough power to show you the "check engine" signal, it should have no problem sending this same signal to the tester. But on to more important things.....

99% of the time your check engine light is emission related and you can keep on driving (maybe with a little more power). -A couple of things to check first though- Make sure your airfilter is not plugged up (so your car can breath) and if there is a sensor in your airfilter box, make sure the wire is hooked up. Next if your car is struggling up hills or when pulling out- check (ie,replace)your fuel filter (so your car can eat-part probly no more than 10 bux), and if that dont do it you probly need to check your catalytic converter to make sure it isnt stopped up (so your car can exhale). Basically if you feel good exhaust coming out of your tailpipe your converter is ok.

One other thing if your having these types of problems could be a weak fuel pump supplying fuel to the fuel filter. This will be expensive if its located in your fuel tank, as with most cars these days.

If your not having these types of problems (which I dont think you are since your driving the car and the only thing you mentioned was the light), Im gonna tell you about a nice little goodie called the oxygen sensor. This sensor screws into your exaust manifold (ie the part where your exhaustpipe connects to the engine) and is used to monitor your emissions. Depending on the year of the car etc, you could have only one (easy on your pocketbook) or up to four (maybe even more)-(gonna be expensive). What will cause this to go bad (covered in soot) is that shitty gas you have been buying (or may not know you have been getting) from the cheapo gas station down the street-usually owned by foreignors or unkempt americans. Good gas (shell) will prolong the life of your oxygen sensors (burns cleaner), your spark plugs, your fuel pump and filter, and a biggie- you catalytic converter. So the few cents you save buying the cheapo gas, like Kroger or superamerica/speedway or even lesser knowns can actually cost you alot more in the long run. Another thing to be careful of is water in the gas, often in wintertime, from places that dont keep their tanks clean, or add water to the gas for more profits (like superamerica/speedway).

Because of this the manufacturers have recommneded replacement intervals for you oxygen sensor(s) and I think most say around every 60 thou. Just check your owners manual.

Heres where you may be in luck: As I said it is an emissions control device and basically wants you to not pollute. When it gets dirty, it basically stops working when it should, which may result in some increased horsepower for you. Depending on the year/make of your car you may be able to simply unplug it (as I have done) and drive on.. It is said that you will experience less gas mileage with these dirty or unplugged but I have not done my own calculations.- However I think not paying a mechanic to replace these for me regularly (and possibly screwing something else up) along with the increase in horsepower, outweighs any minimal gas savings you may get. Like I said it may depend on the year/make of your car as to whether it will run like this, but Ive had good luck on all ive unplugged. The one thing you will have to live with, is getting used to the ck/engine light unless you do like the old school guys do, and unplug the bulb in the dash. A recap- If theyre just dirty you can probly just keep driving with or without unplugging them. If you have a more serious problem-like a cracked exhaust manifold-letting fresh air hit the sensor- and the car is stalling everynow and then, try unplugging it (much cheaper fix than a new exhaust manifold). Picture it like this: When your car is warming up in the morning, it is running "free" basically. - Not taking any readings from the oxygen sensor (as if its unplugged anyway). When the car warms up, the coolant temperature sensor tells the oxygen sensor to start workin and taking readings. So if your car is running worse warm, than cold, that may be a sign.

Now dont go out and buy more of the crappy gas to dirty up your oxygen sensors for more power. As I said before, The crappy gas will ruin other things more expensive-but if youve already got dirty oxygen sensor(s) try buying a better gas and just keep driving. Of course, if you need a tuneup (possibly from the bad gas) things will burn wrong and still soot up alot of stuff and plug up your catalytic converter and you'll have NO POWER.

I cant guarantee that is your problem, but that is my guess. My other car Ive always burnt quality gas, has 180 some thousand miles, never replaced oxygen sensors or spark plugs, runs awesome and has POWER, even with all the smog stuff. So think of it how you would feel if you ate Mcdonalds everyday.

Other things you should check:
A throttle postition sensor (TPS)) could make a engine light come on, but you usually will know you need one because you will get really weird idling/revving for no reason so that doesnt sound like your problem either.

Make sure all your vacuum lines etc are hooked up etc, especially after you get your car back, as some mechanics pull these off to make your car run erratic, Ive seen em do it!

As far as your battery, if its continously starting your car reliably, then it sounds like its pretty strong. Pep boys and the like, make a huge percent of their profits on batteries which are often unneeded. Just call advance auto parts- they will answer the phone "Advance auto parts AND BATTERIES"
They have told me as well as others that batteries were bad when not, and that their batteries are superior- Ha Ha f'n Ha. If your really concerned about your battery, go to autozone, buy one of those things that plugs in your cig lighter (about 12 bux) and you can continously monitor its condition both running/not running via its digital readout. Or you can just pickup a voltmeter about anywhere and use that under the hood. Pep Boyeezz can easily run your battery down for you and tell you you need a new one. Dont do it- (alot of car computers will run a battery down if it sits for a few days) Make them charge it, or better yet, since theyve already tried to screw you, buy you one of those self jumpstarters (i like walmart's brand (everstart) believe it or not)- Jump the car and get the hell outta there!!!

IMPORTANT!!! DONT mistake another light, such as oil, or temperature, etc for your check engine light. These lights require immediate attention (usually red) and you shoud probably shut the car off immediatley. It is possible that the check engine light may come on with one of these other lights to help get your attention. But by itself should pose no imediate threat (thats why its usually orange). However I cannot guarantee that all cars' check engine lights mean the same thing these days and I of course cannot take responsilbility if you screw your car up. But like I said Every car I have known, check engine light was emission related and posed no immediate threat, just a cash cow for Pep Boyeezzzz, goodyear, and the likes. Red lights you should pay attn to.

Hope you learned sumthin, I need no credit for this!

DONT GET RIPPED OFF BY PEP BOYEEEEZZZZ! and keep these ripp off reports coming!

Ive seen alot of pep boyeeezzz ripoffs over the times Ive browsed here. Basically the check engine light is a cash cow for these types of places. They get all happy when someone brings in their car wanting to know about their "check engine" light because they get a fee for the test and they know they can tell you just about anything and you will "haf ta" believe 'em.--Plus, like happened to you- they can tell you "other stuff you might be needin'.

The story about the battery sure sounds bogus to me, I mean if the battery has enough power to show you the "check engine" signal, it should have no problem sending this same signal to the tester. But on to more important things.....

99% of the time your check engine light is emission related and you can keep on driving (maybe with a little more power). -A couple of things to check first though- Make sure your airfilter is not plugged up (so your car can breath) and if there is a sensor in your airfilter box, make sure the wire is hooked up. Next if your car is struggling up hills or when pulling out- check (ie,replace)your fuel filter (so your car can eat-part probly no more than 10 bux), and if that dont do it you probly need to check your catalytic converter to make sure it isnt stopped up (so your car can exhale). Basically if you feel good exhaust coming out of your tailpipe your converter is ok.

One other thing if your having these types of problems could be a weak fuel pump supplying fuel to the fuel filter. This will be expensive if its located in your fuel tank, as with most cars these days.

If your not having these types of problems (which I dont think you are since your driving the car and the only thing you mentioned was the light), Im gonna tell you about a nice little goodie called the oxygen sensor. This sensor screws into your exaust manifold (ie the part where your exhaustpipe connects to the engine) and is used to monitor your emissions. Depending on the year of the car etc, you could have only one (easy on your pocketbook) or up to four (maybe even more)-(gonna be expensive). What will cause this to go bad (covered in soot) is that shitty gas you have been buying (or may not know you have been getting) from the cheapo gas station down the street-usually owned by foreignors or unkempt americans. Good gas (shell) will prolong the life of your oxygen sensors (burns cleaner), your spark plugs, your fuel pump and filter, and a biggie- you catalytic converter. So the few cents you save buying the cheapo gas, like Kroger or superamerica/speedway or even lesser knowns can actually cost you alot more in the long run. Another thing to be careful of is water in the gas, often in wintertime, from places that dont keep their tanks clean, or add water to the gas for more profits (like superamerica/speedway).

Because of this the manufacturers have recommneded replacement intervals for you oxygen sensor(s) and I think most say around every 60 thou. Just check your owners manual.

Heres where you may be in luck: As I said it is an emissions control device and basically wants you to not pollute. When it gets dirty, it basically stops working when it should, which may result in some increased horsepower for you. Depending on the year/make of your car you may be able to simply unplug it (as I have done) and drive on.. It is said that you will experience less gas mileage with these dirty or unplugged but I have not done my own calculations.- However I think not paying a mechanic to replace these for me regularly (and possibly screwing something else up) along with the increase in horsepower, outweighs any minimal gas savings you may get. Like I said it may depend on the year/make of your car as to whether it will run like this, but Ive had good luck on all ive unplugged. The one thing you will have to live with, is getting used to the ck/engine light unless you do like the old school guys do, and unplug the bulb in the dash. A recap- If theyre just dirty you can probly just keep driving with or without unplugging them. If you have a more serious problem-like a cracked exhaust manifold-letting fresh air hit the sensor- and the car is stalling everynow and then, try unplugging it (much cheaper fix than a new exhaust manifold). Picture it like this: When your car is warming up in the morning, it is running "free" basically. - Not taking any readings from the oxygen sensor (as if its unplugged anyway). When the car warms up, the coolant temperature sensor tells the oxygen sensor to start workin and taking readings. So if your car is running worse warm, than cold, that may be a sign.

Now dont go out and buy more of the crappy gas to dirty up your oxygen sensors for more power. As I said before, The crappy gas will ruin other things more expensive-but if youve already got dirty oxygen sensor(s) try buying a better gas and just keep driving. Of course, if you need a tuneup (possibly from the bad gas) things will burn wrong and still soot up alot of stuff and plug up your catalytic converter and you'll have NO POWER.

I cant guarantee that is your problem, but that is my guess. My other car Ive always burnt quality gas, has 180 some thousand miles, never replaced oxygen sensors or spark plugs, runs awesome and has POWER, even with all the smog stuff. So think of it how you would feel if you ate Mcdonalds everyday.

Other things you should check:
A throttle postition sensor (TPS)) could make a engine light come on, but you usually will know you need one because you will get really weird idling/revving for no reason so that doesnt sound like your problem either.

Make sure all your vacuum lines etc are hooked up etc, especially after you get your car back, as some mechanics pull these off to make your car run erratic, Ive seen em do it!

As far as your battery, if its continously starting your car reliably, then it sounds like its pretty strong. Pep boys and the like, make a huge percent of their profits on batteries which are often unneeded. Just call advance auto parts- they will answer the phone "Advance auto parts AND BATTERIES"
They have told me as well as others that batteries were bad when not, and that their batteries are superior- Ha Ha f'n Ha. If your really concerned about your battery, go to autozone, buy one of those things that plugs in your cig lighter (about 12 bux) and you can continously monitor its condition both running/not running via its digital readout. Or you can just pickup a voltmeter about anywhere and use that under the hood. Pep Boyeezz can easily run your battery down for you and tell you you need a new one. Dont do it- (alot of car computers will run a battery down if it sits for a few days) Make them charge it, or better yet, since theyve already tried to screw you, buy you one of those self jumpstarters (i like walmart's brand (everstart) believe it or not)- Jump the car and get the hell outta there!!!

IMPORTANT!!! DONT mistake another light, such as oil, or temperature, etc for your check engine light. These lights require immediate attention (usually red) and you shoud probably shut the car off immediatley. It is possible that the check engine light may come on with one of these other lights to help get your attention. But by itself should pose no imediate threat (thats why its usually orange). However I cannot guarantee that all cars' check engine lights mean the same thing these days and I of course cannot take responsilbility if you screw your car up. But like I said Every car I have known, check engine light was emission related and posed no immediate threat, just a cash cow for Pep Boyeezzzz, goodyear, and the likes. Red lights you should pay attn to.

Hope you learned sumthin, I need no credit for this!

DONT GET RIPPED OFF BY PEP BOYEEEEZZZZ! and keep these ripp off reports coming!

Ive seen alot of pep boyeeezzz ripoffs over the times Ive browsed here. Basically the check engine light is a cash cow for these types of places. They get all happy when someone brings in their car wanting to know about their "check engine" light because they get a fee for the test and they know they can tell you just about anything and you will "haf ta" believe 'em.--Plus, like happened to you- they can tell you "other stuff you might be needin'.

The story about the battery sure sounds bogus to me, I mean if the battery has enough power to show you the "check engine" signal, it should have no problem sending this same signal to the tester. But on to more important things.....

99% of the time your check engine light is emission related and you can keep on driving (maybe with a little more power). -A couple of things to check first though- Make sure your airfilter is not plugged up (so your car can breath) and if there is a sensor in your airfilter box, make sure the wire is hooked up. Next if your car is struggling up hills or when pulling out- check (ie,replace)your fuel filter (so your car can eat-part probly no more than 10 bux), and if that dont do it you probly need to check your catalytic converter to make sure it isnt stopped up (so your car can exhale). Basically if you feel good exhaust coming out of your tailpipe your converter is ok.

One other thing if your having these types of problems could be a weak fuel pump supplying fuel to the fuel filter. This will be expensive if its located in your fuel tank, as with most cars these days.

If your not having these types of problems (which I dont think you are since your driving the car and the only thing you mentioned was the light), Im gonna tell you about a nice little goodie called the oxygen sensor. This sensor screws into your exaust manifold (ie the part where your exhaustpipe connects to the engine) and is used to monitor your emissions. Depending on the year of the car etc, you could have only one (easy on your pocketbook) or up to four (maybe even more)-(gonna be expensive). What will cause this to go bad (covered in soot) is that shitty gas you have been buying (or may not know you have been getting) from the cheapo gas station down the street-usually owned by foreignors or unkempt americans. Good gas (shell) will prolong the life of your oxygen sensors (burns cleaner), your spark plugs, your fuel pump and filter, and a biggie- you catalytic converter. So the few cents you save buying the cheapo gas, like Kroger or superamerica/speedway or even lesser knowns can actually cost you alot more in the long run. Another thing to be careful of is water in the gas, often in wintertime, from places that dont keep their tanks clean, or add water to the gas for more profits (like superamerica/speedway).

Because of this the manufacturers have recommneded replacement intervals for you oxygen sensor(s) and I think most say around every 60 thou. Just check your owners manual.

Heres where you may be in luck: As I said it is an emissions control device and basically wants you to not pollute. When it gets dirty, it basically stops working when it should, which may result in some increased horsepower for you. Depending on the year/make of your car you may be able to simply unplug it (as I have done) and drive on.. It is said that you will experience less gas mileage with these dirty or unplugged but I have not done my own calculations.- However I think not paying a mechanic to replace these for me regularly (and possibly screwing something else up) along with the increase in horsepower, outweighs any minimal gas savings you may get. Like I said it may depend on the year/make of your car as to whether it will run like this, but Ive had good luck on all ive unplugged. The one thing you will have to live with, is getting used to the ck/engine light unless you do like the old school guys do, and unplug the bulb in the dash. A recap- If theyre just dirty you can probly just keep driving with or without unplugging them. If you have a more serious problem-like a cracked exhaust manifold-letting fresh air hit the sensor- and the car is stalling everynow and then, try unplugging it (much cheaper fix than a new exhaust manifold). Picture it like this: When your car is warming up in the morning, it is running "free" basically. - Not taking any readings from the oxygen sensor (as if its unplugged anyway). When the car warms up, the coolant temperature sensor tells the oxygen sensor to start workin and taking readings. So if your car is running worse warm, than cold, that may be a sign.

Now dont go out and buy more of the crappy gas to dirty up your oxygen sensors for more power. As I said before, The crappy gas will ruin other things more expensive-but if youve already got dirty oxygen sensor(s) try buying a better gas and just keep driving. Of course, if you need a tuneup (possibly from the bad gas) things will burn wrong and still soot up alot of stuff and plug up your catalytic converter and you'll have NO POWER.

I cant guarantee that is your problem, but that is my guess. My other car Ive always burnt quality gas, has 180 some thousand miles, never replaced oxygen sensors or spark plugs, runs awesome and has POWER, even with all the smog stuff. So think of it how you would feel if you ate Mcdonalds everyday.

Other things you should check:
A throttle postition sensor (TPS)) could make a engine light come on, but you usually will know you need one because you will get really weird idling/revving for no reason so that doesnt sound like your problem either.

Make sure all your vacuum lines etc are hooked up etc, especially after you get your car back, as some mechanics pull these off to make your car run erratic, Ive seen em do it!

As far as your battery, if its continously starting your car reliably, then it sounds like its pretty strong. Pep boys and the like, make a huge percent of their profits on batteries which are often unneeded. Just call advance auto parts- they will answer the phone "Advance auto parts AND BATTERIES"
They have told me as well as others that batteries were bad when not, and that their batteries are superior- Ha Ha f'n Ha. If your really concerned about your battery, go to autozone, buy one of those things that plugs in your cig lighter (about 12 bux) and you can continously monitor its condition both running/not running via its digital readout. Or you can just pickup a voltmeter about anywhere and use that under the hood. Pep Boyeezz can easily run your battery down for you and tell you you need a new one. Dont do it- (alot of car computers will run a battery down if it sits for a few days) Make them charge it, or better yet, since theyve already tried to screw you, buy you one of those self jumpstarters (i like walmart's brand (everstart) believe it or not)- Jump the car and get the hell outta there!!!

IMPORTANT!!! DONT mistake another light, such as oil, or temperature, etc for your check engine light. These lights require immediate attention (usually red) and you shoud probably shut the car off immediatley. It is possible that the check engine light may come on with one of these other lights to help get your attention. But by itself should pose no imediate threat (thats why its usually orange). However I cannot guarantee that all cars' check engine lights mean the same thing these days and I of course cannot take responsilbility if you screw your car up. But like I said Every car I have known, check engine light was emission related and posed no immediate threat, just a cash cow for Pep Boyeezzzz, goodyear, and the likes. Red lights you should pay attn to.

Hope you learned sumthin, I need no credit for this!

DONT GET RIPPED OFF BY PEP BOYEEEEZZZZ! and keep these ripp off reports coming!

Rob, I'm not a lawyer, but I would venture to say that you're simply out that 60$ and there's not much you can do about it. They performed the service (allegedly), and regardless of whether or not it worked out, you have to pay for it.

Here's my suggestion. Take your car to an Auto Zone, or pretty much any major chain auto parts dealer, and they will run a free diagnostic test for you. Technology has advanced enough to where the big expensive machines that alot of service stations bought years ago are no longer necessary. Auto Zone can run a diagnostic with a handheld device, and they do it for free.

I wouldn't entirely rely on what this diagnostic tells you, but at least it lets you know if Pep Boys was just feeding you a line of B.S. about not being able to get a reading, and allows you to go into another service station with an idea of what the problem is.

Now for a bit of general advice: always take your car to a LOCAL shop that you trust. If you cannot do this, always get a second opinion if your shop is giving you a huge estimate, or telling you that you need work beyond what you think you need.

Insurance agencies estimate that around 40% of vehicle repairs are unnecessary, if it seems like somebody is feeding you a line, they probably are.